pt cei cu Baja
#1
Postat 08 December 2008 - 04:17 PM
Motorul lam reconditionat in interior(tacheti etc..)
Dupa ce il turez un pic.....il opresc , nu mai vrea sa porneasca(trebuie sa trag de el cu "sopr")
Nu stiu ce sa ii mai fac. Am aici un filmuletz cu motorul (pe la secunda 25 incepe sa nu mai porneasca)
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=OX8s6-Wd8Z8 (eu oprec motorul, nu este de la el)
Va rog sa ma ajuti (in filmuletz nu se vede foarte clar motorul....dar se aude)
Stima si Respect
Custom CNC parts GNS Racing
#2
Postat 08 December 2008 - 05:46 PM
radugns, la Dec 8 2008, 04:17 PM, a spus:
Motorul lam reconditionat in interior(tacheti etc..)
Dupa ce il turez un pic.....il opresc , nu mai vrea sa porneasca(trebuie sa trag de el cu "sopr")
Nu stiu ce sa ii mai fac. Am aici un filmuletz cu motorul (pe la secunda 25 incepe sa nu mai porneasca)
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=OX8s6-Wd8Z8 (eu oprec motorul, nu este de la el)
Va rog sa ma ajuti (in filmuletz nu se vede foarte clar motorul....dar se aude)
Stima si Respect
E in 4 timpi?
Porneste-l,tureaza-l...........il lasi vre-o 10 secunde la ralanti si dupa aia il opresti.Si dupa, incerci sa il pornesti.(sa imi spui daca a pornit tot greu)
Sper ca testul ala din filmulet era cu motorul cald la temp optima de functionare.
#3
Postat 08 December 2008 - 05:59 PM
ghost rider, la Dec 8 2008, 05:46 PM, a spus:
Porneste-l,tureaza-l...........il lasi vre-o 10 secunde la ralanti si dupa aia il opresti.Si dupa, incerci sa il pornesti.(sa imi spui daca a pornit tot greu)
Sper ca testul ala din filmulet era cu motorul cald la temp optima de functionare.
Motorul este in 2 timpi..(am spus ca nu stiu daca este ca si cel de Baja)
Motorul a fost lasat sa se incalzeasca vreo 2-3 min...dupa care am incercat sal pornesc iar si iar...
Dupa cum ai vazut....porneste "greu" la un moment dat (din pacate este chiar usor pe langa cat am mai tras de el)
Am sa incerc sa fa ce miai zis , dar lam lasat si eu o vreme la relanti si tot s-a comportat "rau"
Am sa-l las 5 min sa vad ce se va intampla
Dupa cum se vede si in film....a pornit usor o vreme dupa care sa inrautatit destul de mult
Multumesc , astept raspuns
Custom CNC parts GNS Racing
#5
Postat 08 December 2008 - 06:17 PM
ghost rider, la Dec 8 2008, 06:12 PM, a spus:
umbla putin si la jicleru de aer,pare cam bogat amestecu.
incearca si cu alta bujie sa vezi daca face la fel.
Pai are ceva tacheti(sau nu stiu daca si aia se numesc asa....ma rog).....am sa-i schimb bujia....si o sa ma uit la aer,,
Ms de sfat,,,,te anunt maine cu ce "progrese am mai facut"
Stima
nu tacheti am vurt sa scriu(scuzati)
Aceasta postare a fost editata de Flo234: 08 December 2008 - 07:50 PM
Custom CNC parts GNS Racing
#6
Postat 08 December 2008 - 07:20 PM
2.A folosit benzina cu plumb!!wrong!!
3.E bujie de motor in 4 timpi
4.Nu e reglat bine!!
5.Motorul acela are nevoie de turatie mare cand porneste,lafel a fost si la mine la baja si nu pornea :rolleyes:
Find in cunostiinta de cauza mi-am permis sa dau explicatiile!
Aceasta postare a fost editata de Tomazi.: 08 December 2008 - 07:21 PM
unele fete sunt ''radiocomanda''' iar unii baietzi sunt ''masina''(by shadow)
[b]GOoOoOo----Rc auto 1:18,electric with stock rc'
Rc speed boat,nitro engine,aprox 120km/h
Rc fishing boat,can cary 1 kg of beit
Rc rally,1/7,nitro engine,rtr
Rc mini inferno!! the biggg brushless,alumium rims
On the futire,the brand new baja !!(by baja)
Second chase.....
#8
Postat 08 December 2008 - 07:23 PM
Tomazi., la Dec 8 2008, 07:20 PM, a spus:
2.A folosit benzina cu plumb!!wrong!!
3.E bujie de motor in 4 timpi
4.Nu e reglat bine!!
5.Motorul acela are nevoie de turatie mare cand porneste,lafel a fost si la mine la baja si nu pornea :rolleyes:
Find in cunostiinta de cauza mi-am permis sa dau explicatiile!
1.Sunt deacord....dar inainte am lasat motorul o verme sa mearga
2.Este benzina pentru motoare in 2 timpi(+ulei)
3.Bujia este originala(este pt 2 timpi)
4.Aici poate ai dreptate
5.La inceput am tinut turat motorul(avea ceva de invartit pentru turatie) ,dar akuma lam scos din "folosinta initeala"
Stima..
amd, la Dec 8 2008, 07:21 PM, a spus:
s-ar putea sa se intample ceva cu bobina de inductie can se incalzeste
verifica daca scanteia este data cand trebuie (avansul)
verifica platina sa nu fie impuscata
bafta
Scanteia este ok....si avansul iara....
Bujia a fost curatata de ceva vreme(3 zile) de atunci a mai fost turat mai "tare"
Multumesc pentru sfaturi
Aceasta postare a fost editata de Flo234: 08 December 2008 - 07:49 PM
Custom CNC parts GNS Racing
#9
Postat 08 December 2008 - 07:58 PM
inainte sa-l opresti tine-l putin la relanti si incearca sa-i mai dai putin aer din reglaj sau mai inchide jiglorul de benzina un pic
#10
Postat 08 December 2008 - 09:24 PM
daca esti din bucuresti te pot ajuta cu cea mai mare placere
Aceasta postare a fost editata de amd: 08 December 2008 - 09:26 PM
#11
Postat 09 December 2008 - 02:49 PM
amd, la Dec 8 2008, 09:24 PM, a spus:
daca esti din bucuresti te pot ajuta cu cea mai mare placere
Sunt din Cluj...Multumesc
Am rezolvat
Multumesc tuturor care m-au ajutat
Custom CNC parts GNS Racing
#13
Postat 09 December 2008 - 04:47 PM
Flo234, la Dec 9 2008, 03:09 PM, a spus:
in afara de multumesc nimic??
Greseala mea:(
Am uitat sa mentionez: 1.Prima data am schimbat bujia
2.Am curatat carburatorul
3.Am pus mai putin ulei in combustibil
Multumesc inca o data ;)
Custom CNC parts GNS Racing
#15
Postat 09 December 2008 - 08:30 PM
shogi, la Dec 9 2008, 08:01 PM, a spus:
Eu la 1l am pus 30ml
De azi o sa pun cum miai zis (aproximativ 35ml/l)
Stima si Multumire
Aceasta postare a fost editata de radugns: 09 December 2008 - 08:31 PM
Custom CNC parts GNS Racing
#16
Postat 09 December 2008 - 11:41 PM
ca cat pui mai mult ulei este foarte falsa ideea ca lungesti viata motorului,uleiul in exces produce depuneri pe piston si chioulasa dar cele mai grave depuneri se fac pe fereastra de evacuare astfel micsoranduse diametrul evacuarii ducand la incingerea motorului(mare parte din temperatura se pierde si prin gaze)
nu ma laud dar merg pe motorete si scutere cu motoare in 2 timpi de la 7 ani si cam stiu cu ce se mananca asa ca nu vad de ce s-ar folosi mai mult de maxim 25 ml la 1 L de benzina
motorul de baja e derivat tot din industria asta a motofierastraielor care folosesc motoare compacte(cilindru si un semicarter in bloc comun)
nu stiu ce recomanda exact HPI dar la motoare in 2 timpi se foloseste maxim 25 ml la litru
recomand ulei ful sintetic
#18
Postat 10 December 2008 - 11:30 AM
fiecare producator spune concentratia exacta de ulei deoarece are anumite caracteristici acel motor ( nu toate motoarele in 2 timpi sunt la fel (compresie, cursa piston etc)) dar concentratia medie este intre 20-25 g
daca pui prea mult ulei va scoate foarte mult fum si randamentul va fii scazaut
daca pui prea putin ulei uzura segmentilor va creste foarte repede
bafta
#19
Postat 10 December 2008 - 01:08 PM
amd, la Dec 10 2008, 11:30 AM, a spus:
fiecare producator spune concentratia exacta de ulei deoarece are anumite caracteristici acel motor ( nu toate motoarele in 2 timpi sunt la fel (compresie, cursa piston etc)) dar concentratia medie este intre 20-25 g
daca pui prea mult ulei va scoate foarte mult fum si randamentul va fii scazaut
daca pui prea putin ulei uzura segmentilor va creste foarte repede
bafta
Eu stiam ca la motoarele de drujba cum este al meu (in 2 timp) se pune 15ml/800ml
Deci la 1litru aproximativ 20ml
Stima
Custom CNC parts GNS Racing
#20
Postat 10 December 2008 - 02:15 PM
prisi, la Dec 9 2008, 11:41 PM, a spus:
recomand ulei ful sintetic
eu iti spun ce scrie pe cartea tehnica de la baja (si pe flaconul de ulei cu care vine kitul ss)
procentaj 25:1 adica 30 mililitrii la 750 de mililitrii (adica la un rezervor)
din cate vezi fiecare producator are recomandarile lui.
#21
Postat 17 December 2008 - 11:13 PM
apropo atunci cand motorul este innecat sau nu vrea sa porneasca trebuie folosit un amestec mai slab(adica mai putin ulei) crede-ma ca stiu din propria experienta ca si eu am pati-to numa ca era de la compresie(nu mai avea:P)
MIXTURE SETTINGS.
Zenoah G230 RC H 1.1/2 turns L 1.1/4 turns
Zenoah ZG22/G2D H 1 turn L 1 turn
Solo H 1. 1/2 turns L 1.1/4 turns
These are the factory settings on the mentioned engines. They are set according to local conditions. This is depending on the air filter, exhaust and climate conditions. Use the above settings as a starting guid line and depending on what your engine set up is, you will probally have to make some slight adjustments.
BASIC CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT.
As I said earlier, the standard settings are just a guid line and most carbs have to be adjusted, If you feel that your no-load (L) or your full load (H) screws are completely misadjusted, then carefully close both screws. Then turning them anti clockwise follow the settings that are listed above.
STARTING A COLD ENGINE
Always make sure the throttle is in the closed position. Now apply the choke which is on the carb on the solo and Zenoah G230 or on the air filter on the earlier Zenoah engines. Press the primer pump located on the carb until the pump is full of fuel, this you will be able to see. Pull the handle until you hear the engine try and start, this usually takes 2-4 pulls. When you reach this stage, open the choke and give another couple of pulls. This should start your engine.
STARTING A WARM ENGINE
Make sure that there is fuel in your primer cap and that the choke is open, then pull cord.
BEFORE YOU START
Before you start to tune your engine there are a couple of basic things that you should check first. Firstly make sure that your spark plug is in good condition. You do this by simply scewing it out of the cylinder and checking it, if the electriod looks too oiled up then change it as it will make things a lot easier. Most plugs come with the gap pre set but it wont hurt to check to make sure its right. Secondly make sure you have enough fuel as it soon runs low with all that testing and reving, also make sure that your filter is on nice and secure with no possibilty of air leaks. And lastly make sure your batteries are nice and charged. Let us begin!
BASIC TUNING
This is based on the assumption that your car starts but is not runing right. Firstly make sure that you have the mixture settings set to the factory settings. This is quite important at this stage. Then Screw the idel scew in till it bites on the spring that it is set in, then give it one more full turn. Doing this should keep your revs up once you have pulled the starter and got her going. Before you pull the starter make sure your radio is on and working. Pull the starter and after a couple of pulls she should start, if not then you may have a problem which we will cover in our trouble shooter section. Whilst the car is running you will be able to tell if the engine is reving to high just by listening to it. If it is turn the idel screw out slightly(anti-clock wise), only slightly as the engine is still cold and does need to warm up, it is pointless trying to tune a cold engine. Drive the engine until it reaches working temperature. If you notice that the engine decelerates during acceleration, then your engine is running too lean. To rectifie this the no load screw L should be turned anti clockwise. Imagine the screw being a clock, then your adjustments have to be made in 5 minute turns, in other words very small movements. If the engine revs up slowly and runs rough under clouds of smoke, this means you are probally running with an over rich mixture. In this case you should turn the no load scew in clockwise by 5 mins at a time until you have rectified the problem. Run the car repeatedly making minor adjustments until you are happy with the way it is performing.
MAXIMUM REV RANGE
In order to adjust the maxium range of speed, lift the rear wheels and rev the engine shortly at maximum revs. Now you can adjust the Full load screw H to the left to lean off the mixture or to the right if too rich.You will hear the engine reaching its peak revs and you can also notice when it starts to loose the peak. The best way to tune your car is to run it on a track or field and make your adjustments after each run. Remember to make very slight adjustments at a time, this way you will see your improvements a lot better.
POINTS TO REMEMBER
When tuning your engine, after every run make sure you check the bubble on the carb. If this is empty after testing then this means your engine is too hot and running too lean. What you should be looking for is a full bubble or nearly full at least.
TOO MUCH SMOKE
You should also be aware of your engine if it smokes to much, this means it is running too rich and is getting too much fuel. To adjust this turn your L screw in by 5 mins, remember imagine that the screw is the face of a clock, small adjustments is all you need.
...this was previously said on here and posted by someone on here.
#22
Postat 19 December 2008 - 06:44 PM
Respect
Custom CNC parts GNS Racing